New Places to visit

The Giudecca offers some unusual retail opportunities. You can pick up organic fruit and veg grown by the inmates of the women’s prison at the stall on Fondamenta delle Convertite on Thursday mornings. Or you can splash out on luxurious hand-printed Fortuny fabrics (€360 a metre) at the austere warehouse on Fondamenta San Biagio (see my Shopping in Venice page for more information).

Where to eat The Giudecca boasts a host of great restaurants: Mistrà, La Palanca and I Figli delle Stelle to name but a few.

Expert tips: Take in the whole of Venice from the Skyline rooftop bar in the Molino Stucky at the far western end of Giudecca.

  • Try on some prison threads*

Giudecca’s women’s prison produces some amazing goods. Behind the high walls of a 13th-century former convent on the fondamenta delle Convertite, the 80-odd inmates of the Casa di Reclusione Femminile (women’s prison) run a tailors’ workshop, which hit the headlines some years ago when it came up with faithful reproductions of splendid 18th-century costumes for Palazzo Mocenigo. The workshop continues to produce period costumes – for purchase, and to hire at Carnevale time – but also does a healthy business in contemporary clothes, sequin-encrusted bags, jewellery, a variety of accessories and cushions in plush brocades, all of which are on sale at Banco No.10 (Castello 3478, salizada Sant’Antonin), near the church of San Giovanni in Bragora.

Sunday 7th October: Sant’Erasmo



Jewish Ghetto

  • Island of Murano (for Venetian glass) or Burano (for Venetian lace). Some what touristic islands good for lunches. Instead, hop on the 41 vaporetto to Isola San Michele. From afar, San Michele looks like a floating brick wall dotted with cypress trees. But it is Venice’s most illustrious graveyard, the final resting place of Ezra Pound, Igor Stravinsky and other historic figures. Stand aside and watch elderly Venetians walk past the church of San Michele in Isola (39-041-729-2811) and leave flowers on the grave sites of loved ones. A stroll through the island is a welcome respite from the hordes of tourists that blanket the rest of the city.
  • Jewish Ghetto - a quirky,eclectic area with some good cafe's and restaurants.


Alaska Gelateria (Calle Larga dei Bari, 1159) Day trippers in San Marco may settle for vanilla ice milk, but Venetians head to Alaska for outlandish organic gelato: one glorious scoop of Venetian roasted pistachio, or a scoop of vaguely minty carciofi (artichoke) that sings when paired with a scoop of tangy lemon. The celery/peach combo may strike you as a smoothie gone wrong, but at these prices, you can afford to take culinary risks.




(small snacks like spanish tapas)

Prontopesce - the modern looking one Anthony Bordaine went to, is opposite the Loggia in Rialto fish market, just off Campo delle Beccarie. San Polo 319, Venezia. Tel/fax 041 8220298

Work men's Lunch

“workman's” lunch at 12 to 15 euros, eating with bricklayers and gondoliers.

  • Ristorante da Bruno, on Calle del Paradiso in San Lio ( Castello)

Wine bars

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